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19 August 2010
Cross-Country Initial Update
During a torrid and super heatwave, our mad, relentless drive across this extensive and still beautiful continent had three initial pauses. First was with Joyce, River and Dave in St. Louis. Their home is warm and fascinating, the house is an old one, and it is filled with antiques and all sorts of collectibles. River took us to the soaringly impressive Jefferson Memorial Gateway Arch and then through many of the city's various parks and neighbourhoods – the latter often containing memorable architecture and intriguing houses. We had attended Joyce, Dave and Rivers' handfasting at the PSG in June, and they remain for me perfect exemplars of mainstream, no-nonsense pagans – how it could be and many times is not.
Next, in Kansas City – Leawood specifically, it was time to visit Phyllis and Bill – Phyllis being one of my oldest of friends. She has been through some of the worst of health issues but appears now to be through the worst of it and on a road to recovery. We had one day in the Kansas City house – another one (in this case) crammed with antiques, and got to see both Phyllis' daughter Hilary and her grandson Lionel. The next morning we were off with Phyllis and Bill to their lake house in Eagle Rock on the Missouri-Arkansas border. The setting is pure enchantment; the view alone from the house is mesmerizing. Our time there included dinner in Eureka Springs, a visit to the old world Crescent Hotel (a former insane asylum), and a picnic in a boat.
Our third stop was to stay with my aunt Florence and uncle Ralph near Hot Springs, Arkansas. Richard said it was like returning to civilization. Here we were well fed, got a good chance to rest up and were much loved. Florence and Ralph are two solid souls; people with good hearts and gentle presences. We were able to have a delicious dinner one night with my cousin Judy and her husband Larry in their lovely home; and with my cousin Mark and his wife Becca another night at a Mexican restaurant. We also had the opportunity to visit Buckstaff Bath House, one of the old spa houses in Hot Springs. By the time we left Arkansas, we felt restored and re-energized.
After Arkansas, we drove in two days to Denver to stay with Tom Buche whom I have not seen for the past forty years. I had known Tom in New York, and he was a good friend of Bob Pfeiffer whom I had known since my days at Purdue and roomed with in both Los Angeles and San Francisco. Bob was a relatively early victim of Aids, and to reconnect with Tom and three of his friends (Ken, Randy and Don) who had likewise known Bob became an occasion to reminisce through our joint memories. Tom had also driven us through various sections of Denver and allowed us an opportunity to assess the exciting vitality of the city. A lovely man, it was beautiful to reconnect with Tom.
From Denver it is not a long drive to Fort Collins, although the I-25 was the first heavy traffic we have encountered since the East Coast. Here we stayed with my wife/ex-wife Nancy. She remains one of the most favourite of people in my life. As a college town, Fort Collins is no longer blue-collar but more reminiscent of places like Berkeley, Carmel, Palm Springs or downtown Newport. Through Nancy and in part through her poster rounds, slowly the city revealed herself to us and as a fascinating revelation at that. We had locally brewed beers at the New Belgian, various foods from Mugs and totally delicious Mexican cuisine at Los Tarascos. An additional real treat was to reconnect with stunning Elizabeth (of Michael and Elizabeth – though Michael was in Boston and Vermont, and we only got to talk to him by phone). All in all, we had a fine time in Fort Collins – doing (thanks to Gary and Stef) what we mostly did in the 60s.
And then we drove across the Rockies and marveled over the beauty but even more so where we are now in Utah. As Fred puts it, this state is one of the most beautiful in the world. We have been to Bryce Canyon and are off to Zion next. But when we checked into a hotel last night where I could do some of my email, there was one from Becca informing me that my beloved Uncle Ralph (Ralph Austin) died yesterday when he went outside to collect the mail. He was perfectly fine when we left him and Florence six days ago. So we are now in shock, and our heart is with Florence, Judy, Larry, Cathy, Barry, Mark and Becca.